04.06.2008 - 04.10.2008 45 °F
Normandy, a region of green landscapes, narrow roads sandwiched between 15th century timber and mud houses covered with vines and moss, apple groves and the cider to go with it. You could see that the war has been here. It wasn't difficult to notice a lot of the historic buildings had been repaired from the fighting the Americans, British and Canadians waged with the Germans who used the small towns as headquarters. The whole region smelled like manure. If farming ever had to be invented I would guess it was born in this region of North France.
Weather in Normandy changes pretty quick
A top the beach at Omaha is one of the larger of the American cemeteries. While walking along the beach below a few days ago, I can,t say I felt any vibes at all. Very few of the German bunkers remain and not a trace of the barricades that people visualize when they picture the D Day beaches.
Cruising the back roads I found the sun setting over a small town called Coutances. Municipal camping signs in the town brought me to a cozy plot right on the fringe of the village. Right away Bonnie attracted attention and I met some good friends because of her. Pierce is a native to England but a traveler at heart. He,s helping his mother Jillian, a writer with classic British wit, find a permanent home in Coutances. Having explored much of Europe on his Triumph, Pierce tipped me off on some local scenic touring roads down South and pointed out that I could save up to 10cents/liter by using the supermarket gas stations. The bottom line is, he told me, It,s all about smiles per miles.
I got a real taste of the local flavor at this joint Pierce and Jillian knew about that had 4 course daily lunch specials. It just so happened that across the street was a bridge blown up by the allied forces to stop the German retreat. I was told the French have great respect for the monuments left after the war